FAQs

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UNDERSTANDING COLOUR AND THE BASIC COLOUR WHEEL?

The 3 basic colours are called primary colours. These are ‘pure’ colours (in other words, they cannot be mixed from any other colour combination).

Between the primary colours, you find Orange, Green and Purple. These are called secondary colours. They are made up by mixing equal parts of two primary colours.

Red + Yellow = Orange
Yellow + Blue = Green
Blue + Red = Purple

By mixing any primary colour with an equal part of the secondary colour next to it, you create tertiary colours and increase the basic colour wheel to 12 colours.

Red + Orange = Red-Orange
Yellow + Orange = Yellow-Orange
Green + Yellow = Green-Yellow
Green + Blue = Green-Blue
Blue + Purple = Blue-Purple
Red + Purple = Red-Purple

The 12 colour wheel, consisting of 3 primary colours, 3 secondary and 6 tertiary colours is the most useful way to get to know your colours.

WARM AND COOL COLOURS

For us, these 2 sets of colours have familiar associations:

Red/Yellow/Orange = Warm colours associated with heat, sunlight/fire/desert - these
colours tend to be vibrant and jump forward.

Blue/Green/Purple = Cool colours associated with cold, sea/sky/ice - these colours
tend to be calming and soothing on the eye and tend to recede.

A picture painted in all warm or all cool colours will be dull and flat. All paintings need to have a balance of warm and cool colours. For example, the background should consist of a cool colour while the picture is a warm colour, this will tend to stand out better.

COMPLIMENTARY COLOURS

These colours appear opposite each other on the colour wheel. The importance of complimentary colours, lies in the way the colours react to each other. If you place complimentary colours next to one another, the one colour intensifies the other. Red looks redder next to green, blue more vivid next to orange and yellow much brighter next to purple.

Red is the complimentary colour of green
Blue is the complimentary colour of orange
Yellow is the complimentary colour of purple

COLOUR MIXING

When any PRIMARY colour is mixed with an EQUAL part of it COMPLIMENTARY SECONDARY, a grey or brown is produced. Example - Red + Green = Dark Brown By varying portions of colour, you can produce a range of subtle tones which can vary from a cool grey to a subtle brown. Example - Red + Green + Lots of yellow = Mustard. Try it for yourself, using any colour from the colour wheel.

HINTS:

* If you mix 3 primary colours, they produce black
* Never mix too much paint at a time, unless you are tackling a large project
* Always make sure your colours are properly mixed before you begin (otherwise
you will have streaky paint instead of a solid colour.)
* You can neutralise a colour by adding transparent white or tint darker by adding a
LITTLE black.
* you can make colours pastel by adding opaque white

Colour is a very personal thing. Some people opt for vibrant colours, while others choose more subtle colours. Whatever, your choice, experiment with various shades and always write down the colours you have used, as you will not always remember, should you wish to paint the same colour again.

IF IN DOUBT JUST LOOK AT NATURE!

Dala unfortunately cannot guarantee that the following procedure will be successful for all stains caused by powder or liquid tempera. This process contains invasive materials and could harm or destroy your fabric so please test on a sample swatch or on an inconspicuous part of the garment. The procedure contains hazardous materials and should not be attempted by children.
1. Scrape of the dry or wet excess paint.
2. Soak the fabric in warm water. Add 10 ml of vinegar and a 5 ml of liquid dishwasher per 1lt of water. Soak for 30 min agitating occasionally.
3. Rinse and dry.
4. Apply alcohol to the stain and to a piece of absorbent material. Place the material over the stain. Keep the material in place as long as it absorbs the colour and replace the material with a fresh peace if it becomes saturated with colour. It is important to keep the stain and the material constantly moist with the alcohol.
5. Clean of the alcohol and allow it to dry.
6. Soak it again for 30min in warm water 5 ml of dishwashing liquid and 10 ml of ammonia per 1 litre of water.
7. Rinse and allow to dry.
If a stubborn slight stain still remains, make a solution of 5 ml bleach to10 ml water. Apply this solution drop by drop to the stain. Do not leave the bleach on your fabric for longer than 2 min. Rinse in warm water. Apply vinegar to the area and rinse again with water. Some fabrics cannot tolerate chlorine bleach so please test on a sample swatch or on a inconspicuous part of the garment.

Dala Craft Glue is a premium, multi purpose craft glue. It is a polyvinyl acetate (PVA) that dries, without the addition of heat, to a tough, non-visible film.
Applications
Dala Craft Glue is suitable for most hard and soft woods, processed board, cardboard, paper, stone, leather, felt, cloth, cork etc. This glue is ideal for school projects, DIY jobs and all your art and craft endeavours.
Simply mix Dala Craft Glue with one of your favourite Dala Powder Paints for a great finger paint.
Directions
Ensure that the surface is clean and free from dust and grease.
Apply the craft glue to one or both surfaces.
Clamp together for a minimum of one hour. Allow at least two hours drying time before handling.
The bond can be improved by increasing the clamp time ï¿1⁄2 for a truly secure bond, 8 hours is recommended. Clean excess glue from the joints with damp rag before glue begins to dry. Wash hands in water.
Craft Glue is NON TOXIC and NON FLAMMABLE and is therefore safe for children

Although this product is called an INK, which makes most people immediately think of PENS,
it is in fact our thinnest form of
ACRYLIC PAINT, and can be used to create spectacular water colour & painterly effects

Acrylic Inks can be used

As an ink for dipping pens.
For calligraphy (do not leave ink in the pen, as it is acrylic based and will dry out.)
As a paint for air brush techniques.
As an opaque or transparent wood stain.
For watercolour-type painting.
For detail on acrylic works.
To sign works accurately.
As a marbling paint.
For colouring ‘cracks & crevices’ in textural works.

Drawing Ink = LIQUID ACRYLIC

Painting is mainly a 2-dimensional art form (length & breadth.)  When the 3rd dimension (depth)

is added to art works, we move into the area of SCULPTURE.  The most common introduction material when attempting sculptural works, is CLAY.

There are two major techniques when working in sculpture. The first is to ‘build up’ - to manipulate or model the media (clay, or papier mache) into the form that you want. A wire (florist wire or pipe cleaner) can be used as an armature to provide greater strength to support the form you are shaping.   The second is to ‘cut away’ - to reveal your desired form from a larger bulk of your media (wood, stone, clay, etc.)  Here one would carve, scrape, shave or cut excess material away, to leave behind the form you wish to create.

Most clays are relatively soft, and so they are most commonly used for building up forms.  One can use tools (anything harder than the clay can become a tool) or simply manipulate the form with one’s hands.  TEDDY and DALA manufacture a range of clays for different age groups and uses.


PLAY DOUGH

For the younger children Teddy has a range of basic colours, and in MISS TEDDY, some pastel shades, of a very soft flour based modelling clay which is easy to manipulate.  One can mix these with each other to form marbled clay or new colours.  It sticks to itself, so no glue is needed.  It is completely non-toxic and will not discolour your skin.  Unlike Mom’s home recipe, this clay will bounce and is far more elastic, and it is re-usable (for a considerable period) if it is put back into a plastic bag and re-sealed.  If left out to dry it will become harder.

LIGHT WEIGHT CLAYS

Teddy has recently introduced two soft, easy to use light weight clays.  The first is called CRAZY CLAY, a smooth almost weightless clay which is ideal for making forms that can be suspended on eg. florist wire without making them bend – great for models of an atom or the universe.  They can be mixed to form many more than the six colours that come in a pack.  They can also be stuck onto 2-dimensional surfaces to create shallow relief work, without being heavy.

The second one is called FUN FOAM, and it contains thousands of miniature polystyrene balls, making it a textured light weight clay.  Both the light weight clays will slowly air dry if left out of their packaging.  Although aimed at children, it has been discovered by crafters and fine artists as a useful addition to the textural craze that is sweeping the art world.  It too can be stuck onto flat surfaces, even canvas, to create light weight 3-d solutions.

MODELLING CLAY (‘Plastecine’)

Modeling clay (some will remember this as ‘Plastecine’) is not as soft as playdough, but can still easily be manipulated with one’s fingers. It is pre-coloured, and can be mixed to create more colours.  It is glycerine based, so it remains moist, pliable and re-usable for a long time, but will eventually air dry if left out indefinitely. There is less shrinkage when dry in modelling clay than in any of the water-based clays.  Older children (7+) will prefer this to playdough, as it is more solid.


AIR DRYING CLAY

Dala has a terra cotta coloured air drying clay, with the same feel and texture as traditional
earthenware potter’s clay.  This means that it will be wet and fairly soft when one starts working, but will become dry fairly quickly.  If your hands are warm and making the clay dry too quickly, rinse your hands in cold water frequently.  You can also add a little water to the clay to keep it moist till you have completed your task, but too much will weaken the bond in the clay.  ‘Things’ have been added to the clay to allow it to air dry without the need to fire it in a kiln, but baking it in a home oven will strengthen it, and make it less brittle.  It also helps a lot to paint a coat of Dala’s Gel Medium over your task when completed, as this will help to waterproof it (makes it non-absorbent) and provide it with a primer, and strengthen the finish (less brittle.)


Slip   To join two pieces of pottery clay together, particularly if it is a little dry already, make a slip!
This is a paste made with some of the clay and extra water.  Roughen the areas to be joined, paint on some slip, and press the two wet sections together.  The slip acts as a glue to strengthen the join.

PAPIER MACHE

Although Dala does not make a pre-packaged papier mache, one can easily make it by adding any form of easy-tear paper (newsprint, toilet paper, roller towel, light card) to Dala Gel Medium to make an excellent papier mache.  Either paint it directly onto eg newspaper to stiffen it, or let paper soak in water till it is a pulp, and then add Gel medium as the binder.

DALA TEXTURE PASTE

In recent years there has been a growing appreciation for texture in many fields - architecture, fabrics, art & décor.  In fine art & décor there has been a swing away from carefully painted recognizable images, to textures created with mixed media and paint smeared onto surfaces with heavy body paint.  Some companies are producing ready-made heavy body paints (Dala will launch a range shortly) but by far the most popular method is to thicken existing paints with a neutral heavy body paste, to create impasto effects.

Dala therefore has acrylics in a very thin liquid form (ACRYLIC INKS), through to standard gel texture in the ACRYLIC tubes and TUBS, to very heavy body textural paint when they are mixed with any of the products in the water based texture paste range.  In the range are :

*  GEL MEDIUM      This is a catalyst for texture paste.  On its own it is self levelling, matt and
    transparent.  It will retain some shape if it is spread on really thickly, but this is generally a binder,
    which will create various degrees of smoothness when fillers are added (eg. Dala’s Marbl,e Dust,
    Fine & Coarse, Art Sand, Fine & Coarse, & China Clay)

*  TEXTURE PASTE    With added fillers, this paste is white but not heavily opaque, and it is very
    sensitive.  It will dry (24 hrs is best) and retain the sharpness of whatever shapes were create    when it was applied.  Brushes do not work well, but any object harder than the texture paste becomes a tool  (painting knives, combs, plastic, cardboard, the back of the brush, etc.)  It is smooth and flexible, and artist;s quality - it will not flake off after drying like Polyfilla or cheap substitutes.

*  TEXTURE PASTE COARSE   While it is possible to make a coarse texture paste by adding sand,
    Dala’s ready-made coarse paste has been machine blended to give it an excellent even      consistency, which dries to a slightly grey shade, and will keep its shape when cured.

*  GESSO PASTE   Gesso is used to create very smooth surfaces when spread onto an existing primer
    and sanded when dry.  It is however possible to create texture with various tools while it is still wet, and it has become very popular for texture, even with water colour artists.

Texture paste can be applied as is, and then painted when dry, with any type of paint, even oils.  It is also possible to mix colour into the pastes before applying.  If the paint has a strong pigment it is still possible to achieve strong colour in the paste, but avoid metallics as the paste causes them to lose their sheen.   Metallics can be over-painted when the paste is dry.   They stay wet long enough for beginners to play around, scrape off & re-apply several times before they are left to dry, so experimentation is possible. When applying really thick layers it is a good idea to build them up (no more than about 1.5cm at a time, as it is important to give the paste time to dry properly) in several stages.  They will be effective on most surfaces (rough is better) unless the surface is extremely smooth, or greasy / waxy or oily.

Recently several effective experiments are being done with Dala’s Glass Stains on texture pastes, and it is also possible to embed whatever textural objects you want to apply into the wet texture paste, or between two layers of transparent Gel Medium. (Let bottom coat dry and hold objects in place before ‘laminating’ with a second transparent layer of Gel Medium.  Interesting crack effects can be created by over saturating the paste with China Clay.  It will still stick to the surface you apply it to, but as it loses surface tension it will cause cracks to appear when drying.  The whole field of textural mixed media is still very open to new ideas and experimentation, so try whatever seems like an interesting possibility and you are sure to come up with something completely original.  Have fun!

 

Pencil 'Lead'
Pencil lead is made of a mixture of graphite and clay. The graphite is the part that makes the dark mark on the paper. The clay is there because graphite on its own is far too soft and crumbly to write or draw with. Thin leads for mechanical pencils are similar, but with a polymer or resin taking the place of the clay.

Wooden pencil leads also have a little wax or grease added for extra smoothness. In mechanical pencil leads, this is replaced with oil.

The grade, or hardness, of a pencil is due to the proportions of graphite and clay (or polymer/resin). More graphite makes for a softer lead, and more clay makes for harder lead.

What it Means in Use
When you're actually using a pencil, you want it to make marks on paper. The softer the lead, the darker the marks it will make. Artists often use a range of different pencils for a single drawing, switching to a harder lead when they want light shading, and a softer lead for darker areas.

The downside of softer lead is that you're getting the extra darkness by putting more of the lead on the paper, so it gets used up faster. That means you'll be sharpening more often, or with a mechanical pencil, clicking out lead more often. You'll also have to buy more lead or another pencil sooner - great for us, but maybe not so good for you ;)

The Numbers
Here in Africa and Europe, we have one system for both art pencils and office pencils. The middle ground is referred to as HB. Softer lead gets a B grading, with a number to say how soft the lead is. B on its own is just a little softer than HB. 2B, 3B and 4B are increasingly soft. Further up the range, 9B is the very softest lead available, but so soft and crumbly that it's rarely used. Anything over 4B is probably too soft for most people's day-to-day use.

Harder leads than HB get H ratings. In the same way as with the B ratings, the numbers go as far as 9H, but few people need anything that hard. There is an extra grade used by some manufacturers, between HB and H - an F grade, for 'Firm'.

American Pencils

For art and drawing pencils, Americans use the same system. For office use, they often use a different system, with just numbers. A #2 pencil is the same as an HB, with lower numbers for softer pencils and higher numbers for harder.

This numbered system only covers a range from B to 2H - enough to cover most office use, but not enough range for drawing and sketching.

ABS plastics  - Acrylonitrile butadiene styrene. Is a copolymer made by polymerizing styrene and acrylonitrile in the presence of polybutadiene. Abs combines the force and firmness of the acrylonitrile and styrene polymers with the toughness of the polybutadiene rubber making it very strong, hard and durable through a broad range of temperatures. They are highly versatile plastics and bond together well using either adhesive or solvent cement. They are used to make panels for refrigerators, musical instruments and equipment cases, food trays, belt guards, covers and storage bins.

Dala has 2 kinds of brushes.

Pure Bristle “hog hair”
These are stiff bristle brushes used with oils and acrylics

Taklon “nylon” bristle
These are soft bristle brushes used with oils and acrylics

All Dala brushes can be used with all Dala paints.

If you are trying to achieve a fine smooth finish you would use a taklon brush……..7 series (decoupage, acrylic, oil, craft, glass glaze, quouche)

If you were trying to achieve a rough impasto finish you would use a Pure bristle brush………5 and 8 series……..5 series if the student quality and 8 series is a professional pure bristle brush (fabric paint, oil, acrylic, craft paint)

Sugar Paper aka Construction paper is a tough, coarse, colored paper. The texture is slightly rough, and the surface is unfinished. Due to the source material, mainly wood pulp, small particles are visible on the paper’s surface. It is used for projects or crafts.

The origin of the term sugar paper lies in its use for making bags to contain sugar. It is related to the "blue paper" used by confectionery bakers from the 17th century England onwards;

Ballpoint pens use an oil based ink in which pigment is suspended in oil. The ink is dispensed at the tip by the rolling action of the ball and dries almost immediately after contact with paper. Inexpensive, reliable and maintenance free, the ballpoint has replaced the fountain pen as the most popular tool for everyday writing. Ballpoints require more pressure to write and lack the free flowing supply of ink.
All Pilot ballpoint pens have stainless steal tips that house the tungsten carbide ball. The ball keeps its round shape ensuring the line remains precise and regular, without blotches or leaks.

Gel ink pens use ballpoint writing mechanisms with an ink in which pigment is suspended in a water-based gel. The gel ink is in a solid state inside the refill but turns liquid from the friction generated heat of the rolling ball. Once the ink cools down on the paper, it becomes solid again. Gel ink provides the user with smooth, effortless writing with vivid colours and no blobbing, and because the ink is thick and opaque, it shows up more clearly on dark surfaces.
Gel ink is acid free and archival safe.

Rollerball pens use ballpoint writing mechanisms with a water-based liquid ink.
The rollerball pen was designed to combine the convenience of a ballpoint pen with the smooth, wet ink effect of a fountain pen. The characteristics of these less viscous inks gives them distinctive writing qualities i.e. Ink saturates more deeply and widely into paper.

Hi-tecpoint pens have a unique stainless steel, needle point tip that uses 3 or 4 dimples to support the ball. The advantage is the ball is supported by the dimple points thus reducing the wear surface and allowing a smoother rotation of the ball. Hi-tecpoint pens use liquid ink.

Frixion ink is a unique, thermo-sensitive ink that reacts to heat. When the ink becomes hot, it goes invisible. When it is cool, the ink comes back. The plastic tip (eraser) on the end of the Frixion pen generates enough heat through friction when rubbed against the surface of the paper. To get the ink to reappear again, place the paper in the freezer for a few minutes. Keep in mind that because the Frixion ink is thermo-sensitive you should not leave documents or pens exposed to heat for a prolonged period of time. Never use Frixion for signing legal documents or cheques.

ATT System - Air tight and through system. This system keeps the pen tip air tight and through by an ingeniously adjusted spring and pen tip holder. This ensures no dryness of the pen point, ink blotching or ink leakage leading to instant writing starts every time. ATT is used in Pilot Rollerball, Hi Tecpoint and Disposable Fountain pens.
Ink Regulator - Any excess ink flow from the ink reservoir while writing is stored temporarily in special pen core by capillary action. This ensures stable and constant writing supply to the last drop. Ink regulator is used in Pilot Rollerball, Hi Tecpoint and Disposable Fountain pens.
TPF - The Twin Pipe Feeder System provides a stable ink control by utilizing 2 pipes and a reservoir. Of the 2 pipes, one is to supply the ink to the reservoir and the other is to send air to the ink tank. TPF is used in V Board Master (Whiteboard Marker) and V Super Color (Permanent Marker).

Although we cannot guarantee or be responsible for any stain removal especially in removing it completely we suggest the following:
Generally it is better to use Ethanol (Ethyl Alchol) which is a solvent to dissolve oil based ink. Thinner or Benzaine can also be used for removal of stains, but they are stronger than ethanol and they may damage material. In the first instance use a cloth soaked in Ethanol first and wipe up the ink stain carefully. If this is unsuccessful then try thinner or Benzaine.
If using Permaball that writes on paper, plastic, glass, ceramic and metal the permanent type of ink used can be erased with a damp cloth or tissues within a few hours of writing

Gel ink might be difficult to remove completely. We recommend the following:
Dissolve some hand soap in water and slowly tap the stained clothing with it.
Rinse under running water and repeat if necessary.

The key to understanding how staples are sized is easy – it’s all about simply knowing what the numbers in the size represent. The two numbers used in international staple sizing are the gauge of the wire and the length of the staple shank, given in millimetres. A lower wire gauge number means a thicker staple, while a higher shank number means a longer leg.
The most widely recognized standard for staple sizes reads wire gauge/shank length, such as 23/8, for example, where the gauge of the wire (23) is the former, and the shank length (8 mm) is the latter. One example of an exception to this rule is the standardized size No. 10 staple, which is used for mini staplers.
Heavy duty staplers range in purpose from holding together thicker packets (25 pages or more), to fastening boxes or various industrial purposes. Typical staples sizes for these purposes are 13/10, 13/14, 23/12, 23/15 and 23/24.
Household or classroom and office staples are the most commonly used type. Some of the more commonly used sizes are 13/6, 13/8, 24/6, 24/8 or 26/6. These staplers are usually used to fasten packets of twenty five (or fewer) pages together, or to hold just a few pages to a bulletin board or wall.
Before purchasing staples, always check the stapler that will be used for a specific staple size that may be stamped inside the cover or on the base. If so, use the manufacturer’s recommendation for the best stapling performance.

Follow the steps below:

Open Microsoft Word
Ensure that the Tower label templates are installed in Word.
To carry out the mail merge click on “Tools”, “Mail Merge” or “Mail Merge Wizard” and follow the prompts in the dialog box that appears:
Main Document – click “Create”, Mailing Labels” and then “Active Window”.
Get Data – click “Open Data Source” and select the Excel file and click “Open” (NB. Files of type must be Excel), click on “Entire Spreadsheet” and “OK”. Select “Set Up Main Document”, select the label size and then “OK”, click on “Insert Merge Fields” and then “OK”.
Merge – click “Merge” again.

Follow the steps below:

Open Microsoft Word
Ensure that the Tower label templates are installed in Word.
To carry out the mail merge click on “Tools”, “Letters and Mailing”, “Mail Merge Wizard” and follow the prompts in the dialog box on your right side on screen:
Select document type – select “Labels’ and then click “Next: Starting document”
Select starting document – select “Change document layout”. Under Change document layout click on “Label Options”, select the label code you require and click “OK”. Now click “Next: Select recipients”.
Select recipients – select “Use an existing list”. Under “Use an existing list, click “Browse”. Now find your spreadsheet on your hard-drive and click “Open” (NB. Files of type must be Excel). Under Mail Merge Recipients click “Select All” and click “OK”. Now click “Arrange your labels”
Arrange your labels – click “More Items” to insert your fields (NB. To insert fields you must each time click More Items, select the field, click insert, click cancel and then enter to get to the next row). Under “Replicate labels” click “Update all your labels” and then click “Next: Preview your labels”.
Preview your labels – Click “Next: Complete the merge”
Complete Merge – click “Print”.

It could be that your printer is default set on Letter format when it needs to be set on A4 format seeing as these are A4 labels.

To check your printer paper size, do the following:

If you have WINDOWS 95, 98 & 2000:

Click on “Start”, “Settings” and then “Printers”
Double click on the printer you are printing through
Click on “Printer” tab and then “Properties”
Click on either “Paper” or “Setup” tab
Paper size should be “A4 210 x 298″
If you have WINDOWS XP:

Click on “Start”, “Settings” and then “Printers & Faxes”
Double click on the printer you are printing through
Click on “Printer” tab and then “Properties”
Click on “Printing Preferences” tab
Click on “Layout” tab and then “Advanced” (at the bottom)
Paper size should be “A4 210 x 298″
THEN:

Click on “Device Setting” under “Properties”
Paper size should be “A4 210 x 298″
Note: When you press the print option when using Word XP, a drop down menu titled “Scale to Paper Size” will appear in the bottom right hand corner of the pane. It is usually defaulted onto “No Scaling”. You need to ensure this is set on “A4 210mm x 297mm” before pressing print.

To avoid label wastage, print out onto paper first. Then hold this page with a sheet of labels to the light to ensure each label lines up correctly.

Due to the extreme heat and pressure generated in laser printers, this would not be advised, especially if a label has been removed from the sheet. In inkjet printers, however, one sheet can be printed multiple times.

With colour printing becoming the norm, computer users are finding more innovative and useful ways of using labels. Here are a few ideas:

Professionally label your CD’s and 3½” disks.
Neaten up your office – label your files with Tower A4 lever arch labels (CIL-W330). Also neatly label shelves and cupboards.
Book labelling – Tower A4 labels are both neater and less time consuming.
Make birthdays, weddings, anniversaries and other occasions even more special by personalizing bottles of wine, gifts, etc.
Save costs by designing and printing your own product labels. This means you don’t have to use an outside printer asking large minimum order quantities.
Create your own professional looking business cards as and when you need them. Now you no longer need to throw away business cards containing incorrect details, but simply update the details and print the cards as you require them.
Create a good impression using Tower Overhead Transparencies for all of your presentation requirements.
See Range and Dimension Formatting Guide for the full Tower A4 range.

How do I change my settings from inches to centimetres?
Click on ‘Tools’, scroll down to and click on ‘Options’. Click on ‘General’ tab and choose ‘centimetres’ at ‘Measurements Units’. Alternatively place ‘cm’ after typing in each label dimension.

I have installed the Template Disk, but the main window remains blank after I have chosen the correct template. What’s wrong?
Your gridlines are not activated. Go to ‘Tables’ and click on ‘Show Gridlines’.

For lever arch labels, how do I create text that is at 90 degrees to the long side?
Go to ‘Format’, then scroll down to and click on ‘Text Direction’. Now choose the orientation you require. (Note: This can be done in MS Word ’97 and 2000 only).

STEP 1: Choose Label Size & Design Template

Products
Range / Dimensions Formatting Guide
Download Tower Templates

Download Free trial LabelArt Design Software

STEP 2: Insert Label Content

Clipart
Mail merging
Download Pre-designed Labels

STEP 3: Print Labels

Bamm offers the following products.

• Before you print onto a sheet of labels, first print onto a blank A4 page of paper. Place the printed sheet in front of a label sheet, then hold the sheets up to a light to make sure the positioning is correct.
• Tower inkjet products feed directly from the paper tray of your inkjet printer, just like plain paper.
• Fan the label sheets before loading them into the paper tray. DO NOT BEND THE CORNERS.
• Refer to your printer manual for loading and feeding recommendations. Many printers have special instructions for loading labels.
• For easier feeding in most printers, place the label sheets in the paper tray on top of 25 sheets of plain paper.
• Adjust the paper width lever so that it barely touches the edge of the label stack and the labels do not buckle.
• Printer margins may vary, and in some cases the bottom label may print below the bottom margin of your page. If this happens, use the ‘Printer Callibration’ option in the ‘File’ menu to help you get the best results from your printer ; for instructions, see your user’s guide.
• If you are not satisfied with the print quality from your printer, check the following Print mode settings – Choose Draft/Economy for fast test prints, Normal/Productivity for everyday use, and Best/Photo for highest-quality results.
• Because extreme temperatures and humidity can affect print quality, we recommend printing in temperatures around 23

• Store label material in its original bag and box in a cool, dry environment and in horizontal position
• Shelf life can vary greatly depending on environmental conditions (heat, humidity etc.) but usually 2-3 years. However, if one defines ‘shelf life’ in terms of ‘life span’ inkjet-laser labels have a life span of 10-15 years depending on storage conditions.
• Avoid folding and excessive handling of the media to protect the material from damage.
• It is recommended to introduce a plain paper sheet between the printed samples to avoid damages produced by friction between the backside and the print side.

The Tidy Files top retrieval system consists of a variety of folders and files, tabs and containers, all designed to enhance efficiency in records management Filing Cabinets. Filing segmentation is achieved through the use of 25 different colour labels, and in some cases through 5 different colour files. This provides for speedy retrieval and replacement of files, and ensures that misfiling is virtually eliminated.

50% time saving resulting in a 40% cost saving due to improved productivity of employees.
1 Tidy Files five drawer unit replaces 5 four drawer suspension units, creating a floor saving of up to 57%, ultimately resulting in a cost saving for our clients.
Enhances the aesthetics of existing offices, as the cabinets are made to match the existing office furniture, with no additional cost to replace furniture to keep a corporate look.
Our wood cabinets are the most cost-effective as they cannot collapse and last longer than cabinets without metal frames and anti-tilting mechanisms.
Tidy Files offers ongoing support, completely free of charge.
Multimedia bulk filing can be mobile and eliminates unnecessary access aisle space.

A Label identifies which documents are filed in various files. The labels are essential for the setup of a complete and functional filing system. We offer 2 types of labels, Alphabetical and Numberic labels.

Alphabetical Labels

• Alphabetic laser labels consist of 24 labels per sheet.
• The Alphabetic labels are used to name and distinguish each individual file.
• Alphabetic labels are ideal when using first-second letter filing systems.

Numeric Labels

• Numeric laser labels consist of 40 labels per Sheet.
• The Numeric labels are used to number & distinguish each individual file.
• Numeric labels are ideal when file indexing uses Numerals (1-9)

The use of 25 different colours of labels and the indices printed on all Tidy Files files, enables a variety of different filing systems to be created, preventing misfiling and saving time in retrieval of the files.

We offer the largest range of Cabinets to suit each individual need.

Solo Cabinets

Mini Cabinet

Quantium Cabinets

Quadro Cabinets

Combination Cabinets

We have a range of handles to choose from:
Long PVC Handles across the top of each drawer, available in black or brown. Metal handles, available in silver aluminun finishes.

All cabinets have a 10 year warranty on the moving parts. (warranty attached)
• The cabinets have been ergonomically designed to ensure maximum use of both floor and filing space.
• All our cabinets have a SABS Approval certificate which guarantees long life.
• Tidy Files use an imported slides / runners and these can hold up to a maximum of 120kg per drawer.
• Cabinets have a central locking mechanism and an anti tilt mechanism ensuring the cabinet will not fall over.
• Have a solid steel frame with steel drawers which is cladded with 16mm melamine or a veneer finish

The cabinets have a ten year warranty on the working parts. The warranty is from the date of purchase and is not extended if repairs are done during this period.
The following cancels the warranty:
If the customer overloads the cabinet (normally the ball bearings will fall out of the runners)
If the customers moves the cabinet. This might cause the runners to jam because the cabinet is not leveled properly.
Any alterations to the cabinet by the customer.
Heavy objects on the cabinet - this might crack the top and bend the frame.
Loose screws etc. is caused when the customer wants to force open a drawer that is locked or that jams when the cabinet is not level. This is not covered by the warranty, but we normally assist where we can.

Another common problem is that the drawers come off the runners because the customer does not pull the drawer forward, but upwards when opening the cabinet. We normally fix this free of charge the first time and explain why this happens, but when it happens again we charge the customer a call out fee.
During the first 6 months after the sale of a cabinet we do not charge a call out fee to sort out any problems with the cabinet. After this period there should not be any more problems and if necessary we charge a call out fee after this period when we need to repair a cabinet. Parts are then covered by the warranty. We utilize a cabinet check list for when we delivery the cabinet.

The Tidy Files archiving solutions are the largest in the southern hemisphere and cater for A5, A4, A3 and foolscap documentation.
The archiving system consists of a variety of different boxes suitable for archiving office records.
Our archiving product range adheres to all gazetted archive procedures.
The container boxes are modular, stackable, re-enforced with steel, this eliminating need for shelving in a record room.
The archive boxes are designed to fit into the containers or onto existing shelving , but with space saving properties incorporated into the design.

Surveys
No obligation quotations

Customised filing solutions
File Plans
Implementation assistance

Professional advice
Training and up-skilling employees on a complete filing solution
Consultants do personal service and sales calls

To download the labelling program, click on this link

A pocket opens on the short side and a wallet opens on the long side.

We offer either ‘gummed flap’ (traditional ‘lick and stick’), and our two self sealing options are ‘Kwikseal’ – our latex flap envelopes which is a press and seal option or ‘Simpli-Stik®’ (peel and seal). Note that the ‘Simpli-Stik®’ envelopes have the longest shelf-life.

Opaque is the printing on the inside of the envelope to prevent the contents of the envelope being visible through lighter grammage paper. Also called ‘security print’, in our standard envelopes it is printed in one colour in flexo ink during the manufacturing process.

The DL (110x220mm) our standard window size is a 45x90mm window positioned 15mm from the bottom of the envelope and 20mm from the left edge of the envelop